Friday, August 21, 2009

Cracked radiator

I'm right in the middle of my qualifier exams at the moment -the exams every PhD student has to take in order to keep receiving funding, and to stay in the programme. It's a two week gruelling event ended by an hour-long presentation on a topic you've only known for two weeks, during which professors get to grill the hell out of you asking everything from 'what does that electron do' to 'why are my pants blue?' It's murder.

Anyway, car stuff doesn't stop for anything. So I thought I'd share some recently acquired experience with you so you don't have to pay $60 to be towed 15 miles:

When your radiator starts leaking, PATCH THE LEAK OR REPLACE THE RADIATOR!!

Here's what the radiator (in my Altima) was doing one day:


In the video you'll notice a small bubbling leak coming from the top plastic part of the radiator, right where the Nissan logo is. I didn't think too much of it and just patched it up with some tape. I figured I'd replace it eventually.

I drove up to Jersey and back (4 hours each way), but on the return trip noticed that my AC wasn't working too well. Looking down at the gauges I saw a needle way past H, and eventually saw smoke coming out of the hood. So I turned off the engine, pulled over (without power steering - quite difficult in this car), and waited for AAA. Here's what the radiator looked like afterwards:
Note that this crack spans from the centre till way into the left side of the radiator (sorry, cell-phone pic). Thinking about this for a second, you can understand why: a radiator at high temperatures does generate some steam inside. Steam builds up, leading to pressure which was trying to vent through the pinhole. At one point it just got so hot and the pressure was so high the radiator gave way and cracked. Not bad, actually, for a 16 year old radiator.

The radiator was very easy to take out (collect your coolant properly! I let it run and later found squirrels drinking from it. If you don't want to chase squirrels all day collect it properly.) All-in all it would have taken me about an hour to replace.

Not a huge deal, RockAuto was willing to ship a new radiator to me for $95 (everything included). But time was of the essence, so I decided to go to Advance instead. Their website said a new radiator was $127, but the in-store price was $137 ("Yup, that's the store price" the sales associate told me when I asked why the bill was so high). I guess I was willing to pay $30 more, but $40 was starting to push it, especially if you consider the $60 towing charge. Also the principle of the matter didn't sit well with me. I contacted Advance about this (to bring it to their attention, not to demand a refund) and they got back to me on this, apologising for the incident and offering a gift card. Oh, and make sure you get the right radiator for your car (manual vs automatic, not the same!!), which set me back another day (plug any extra holes with silicone).

You should know this is unlikely to happen in an MG radiator, mainly because it's entirely metal. Though pin-hole leaks can happen, pressure will not build up the same way it did in my Altima. A good radiator cap should prevent any explosions, which should also be minor seeing as metal is much stronger than plastic (and a pin-hole will remain as such for much longer).

They really don't make things the way they used to.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

A Sad Day for MG Enthusiasts

I was very shocked to find out yesterday that University Motors, known for its excellent MG self-help videos, is shutting down. To quote the website:

University Motors will cease fulltime business on Wednesday, July 1 st , 2009 , after 34+ years of service to the MG community. When our Governess promised in her 2006 State of the State Address that "In five years, you're going to be blown away by the strength and diversity of Michigan 's transformed economy," little did we imagine that it would be our own business that would be demolished in the ensuing economic storm.
John Twist's videos proved invaluable during those shaky first months when I really had no idea what I was doing. (This MGB is the first car I've ever really worked on.) It's a sad day and a real shame that we have to see something so wonderful go away. It's odd, because I always figured it'd be there. At some point I even planned on going to Ada, Michigan, to get something done, just to say I went there.

Luckily the videos will always be there, thanks to Youtube. Mr Twist always uploaded his videos to Youtube, that will keep a permanent record of it. I'm not too sure about how long the website will stay in existence, so I've copied the technical videos portion and put it on my server as the video organisation goes lost on Youtube: The original is here, mine is here.

Though there are many MG help guides online, very few are as clear as the University Motors videos. Most give general instructions but don't actually stop to give a good explanation of how things work. And, much to my annoyance at first, many are written in technical jargon or with details left out (such as, where's spark plug 1?) which rendered them useless for me. Haynes manuals and such are convoluted with too much information, unless you know exactly where to look. University Motors was a great place for a beginner like me to start.

The goal of this blog was to help other people in my situation get started by speaking in a very non-technical manner, which I hope I've somewhat accomplished. John Twist has accomplished this with his excellent series of MG technical videos.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Oil warning

I just found this article online about automotive oils. If you own an old car, you should care a lot about this:

http://www.mgtoronto.com/pdf/Tech/Oil.pdf

Apparently not just our fuel has become more environmentally friendly, but also our lubrication oils. Unfortunately, as with the added ethanol (that's not exactly environmentally friendly either...), the new oils also do significant damage to your car, more specifically to your camshaft and lifters. The oils lack certain 'pollutants', and the new materials replacing them seem to eat away at our cam shafts. This affects pretty much all oils, except certain brands. Redline Oil still makes racing oil (non-EPA approved, which is why it's still good) that you can find in the 10W20 etc. varieties. Castrol 20W50 is still OK as well, but not their other oils, which I have been using.

Here's a list from the article linked above:
  • Castrol: GTX 20W-50, GTX Diesel 15W-40, GTX High Mileage 20W-50, HD 30, HD 40,
  • Syntec Blent TRUCK 1 5W-40 (Semi-synthetic), Tection Extra 1 5W-40, Hypuron S 1
  • 5W-40, TWS Motor sport 10W-60 (Synthetic).
  • Redline: 10W-40, 10W-40 (Synthetic oils)
  • Valvoline: Racing 20W-50
People should also know that the addition of ethanol in fuel results in gaskets and rubber being eaten away prematurely, as well as a higher running temperature (which results in poor mpg's and early engine wear). If anyone knows a place that sells ethanol-free gas please let me know.

Once again I'm pissed at treehuggers that won't let me drive my car, when the real demons are:
  1. The energy industry (coal, gas for power? seriously? are we still in the 19th century??)
  2. The commercial transportation industry (diesel trucks with NO emissions regulations driving hundreds of miles daily,diesel trains, a giant presidential limo that gets less mpg than a 70s Buick)
  3. Agriculture (cows farting is more polluting than beltway traffic. I dunno, stick a cat conv. on their backs or something...)
  4. Real clunkers that are still on the road (but hell, I'll defend their right to drive till I die)
Anyway, enough politics. I'll be getting back to MG stuff soon. In the meanwhile I'm trying to get some body work done.

And feel free to check out my twitter account for more ramblings such as the one above: mgFreak